Everything about Kernmantle Rope totally explained
Kernmantle rope is
rope constructed with its interior core (the kern) protected with a woven exterior sheath (mantle) that's designed to optimize strength, durability, and flexibility.
Use as climbing rope
The
nylon ropes that were used in
yachts for hauling were tested and found useful in
climbing and
caving, and are now the modern standard. Although there are occasional innovations, the type of rope used today is similar in construction, strength, and durability across manufacturers. There are several major manufacturers, including
Pigeon Mountain Industries or PMI, Mammut, Beal, Edelweiss, Blue Water, Roca, and Maxim. Kernmantle ropes are still used in sailing and other sports, however the technical requirements are usually not as rigorous as in climbing since the applications are not as safety critical. Smaller kernmantle ropes are commonly called cordalette or accessory cord. They are often used to make
prusik knots and loops or attaching accessories such as chalk bags.
One or more of the rope characteristics (strength, durability flexibility) are often altered somewhat, depending upon the ultimate use of the rope, at the expense of the other properties. For example, rope used in
caving is generally exposed to more abrasion than other forms of recreation, so the mantle is woven more tightly than rope used in
climbing or
rappelling. However, the resulting rope is cumbersome and difficult to tie
knots in.
Kernmantle construction may be used with both static and
dynamic ropes. Static ropes are designed to allow relatively little stretch, which is most useful for hauling, rappelling, and other applications. Dynamic rope is used to belay climbers, and is designed to stretch under heavy load to absorb the shock of a fallen climber. Dynamic ropes manufactured for climbing are tested by the
UIAA. This test involves tying an 80kg weight to the end of a length of rope. This weight is then dropped 5m on 2.7m of rope with the rope running over a rounded surface simulating that of a standard carabiner. This process is repeated until the rope breaks. It is a common misunderstanding to think that the number of drop test falls (as conducted by the UIAA) is the number of real-life climbing falls a rope can sustain before it becomes unsafe. The drop test falls are of extreme severity and it isn't often that a real-life climbing fall generates a comparable force. Basically, you can fall on your rope a lot more times than the number of times it has been drop-tested until failure.
Rope care
Kernmantle rope should be inspected after every use for any form of damage. "Boogers," which indicate internal damage to the kern, will appear as tufts of white threads poking out from the mantle. Ropes that have been severely stressed will have tapered sections to the rope, where it's visibly or palpably thinner. Rope that has been abraded or cut on sharp edges should be examined closely by an experienced user who may choose to cut the rope at that point, rather than risk it parting at that area.
Rope may be cleaned by forming it into a
chain sinnet, to prevent excessive tangling, and washing it in a front-loading clothes
washing machine with soap flakes. Strong cleansers, including
bleach and
detergent shouldn't be used with life-critical Nylon components. Commercial rope cleaning devices are available from the climbing and rescue companies CMI and PMI. Directions for making a similar device can be found
here
.
Typical specifications
| Dynamic Ropes |
| Diameter |
Typical Impact Force* |
Typical Weight |
| 8.1mm (~5/16") |
6kN (1350lb) |
42g/m (0.45oz/ft) |
| 9.8mm (~3/8") |
8kN (1800lb) |
63g/m (0.67oz/ft) |
| 11mm (~7/16") |
9kN (2000lb) |
78g/m (0.84oz/ft) |
*Dynamic ropes are rated for a certain number of falls (usually 5-10) at a given impact force.
| Static Ropes |
| Diameter |
Typical Breaking Strength |
Typical Weight |
| 9mm (~11/32") |
21kN (4700lb) |
51g/m (0.55oz/ft) |
| 10mm (~3/8") |
27kN (6000lb) |
66g/m (0.71oz/ft) |
| 10.5mm (~13/32") |
30kN (6750lb) |
69g/m (0.74oz/ft) |
| 11mm (~7/16") |
34kN (7650lb) |
75g/m (0.81oz/ft) |
Mammut Static Rope specifications
BlueWater Ropes
Further Information
Get more info on 'Kernmantle Rope'.
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